Obituaries

Crispy, Speedy, Over the Top

Credit…Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Even hearing the words “smash burger” makes my mouth water. I can just see myself with a spatula, pressing the patty until it sizzles and hisses, its edges browning alluringly in a halo of hot fat. And then that first juicy bite.

Ali Slagle captures that crave-inducing sorcery in her new recipe for mushroom smash burgers. Thick and meaty portobello caps, fried under a weight, flatten to chewy, crisp-edged perfection. Further enhanced by a slice or two of melty cheese, your favorite burger condiments and a toasted bun, they make a burger you’ll be thinking of days later. And it’s a whole lot easier than the usual, multiple-ingredient veggie burger.


Featured Recipe

Mushroom Smash Burgers

View Recipe →


I use that same spatula-squish move when cooking fried rice to give it an extra-crunchy crust. Give that technique a try with Ham El-Waylly’s take on arroz chaufa, a Peruvian-Chinese (Chifa) staple of stir-fried rice, this one made with chicken and red bell peppers. You can watch Ham make his dish here.

Speaking of crispy stir-fries, here’s my piquant and speedy green beans with pork and chiles, seasoned liberally with soy sauce, ginger, and coriander seeds for aromatic pops of flavor. Make it vegan by substituting chopped mushrooms for the pork. Or use a different ground meat — chicken, turkey, beef or lamb all work equally well. It’s a simple dish that delivers a five-star bang.

Back to top button